The pagoda is often closed, but this last Saturday we got lucky. Not only was it open, we also had the good fortune to be there for a religious service. The compound is huge, with interior courtyards and alleyways and a view of the lake.

The place filled up slowly with little old ladies and women monks. The service was conducted by a woman hitting a drum and chanting. One of the astounding things was that no one minded us taking photos and for this we can all be grateful.

To get a better understanding of Hanoi, you’ve got to realise that the whole city is built around a series of natural lakes, some large and some small, and on the banks or the Red River which really doesn’t exist for us since Hanoi sits with her back to it.

The Ho Thien Quang Lake is very small. There are people fishing in its waters upon which float the debris of the plastic bag culture.

These lakes make life here very pleasant. There’s nothing like a Sunday walk around a lake to give you an impression of space of freshness.