Every country has a road which stands as a symbol. Many countries, no matter how small, have several such roads. Laos has Route Thirteen going North and East along the Mekong and South into Cambodia. It also has the famous Ho Chi Min trail going from North to South on the Vietnamese border.

We had the great privilege of taking Route Thirteen North from Vientiane to Luang Prabang on clear sunny days. Sometimes a fine mist would come and encircle the base of a mountain. Although the Route is a National Road there is hardly any traffic on it. The main dangers are the pigs, ducks and chickens who are constantly crossing the road to get to the other side. The Route takes you through some unforgettable scenery and it also takes you through tribal areas.

There are no hotels outside of the major centres. Ah, before I forget! In Vang Vieng there is a wonderful little guest house run by a French couple from Lyon, Catherine and Serge and their children Lisa and Bamboo. The rooms are comfortable and may we recommend the buffalo steak? It’s called ‘Les Jardins de Vang Vieng’ and it’s just a wee bit off the beaten path.

There are no hotels, as I was saying, and so once in the tribal zones you’ve got to stop and ask for the Head Man, or Naï Ban, who’s job it is to get you settled down for the night. Be prepared for an evening of mime and gestures since no one speaks English or French and eat before or bring your own food (be ready to share) unless you wish to dine on cockroach delicately roasted over coals or rat’s intestine à la Laotiènne.



Mair