Sunday morning, after another night in the Range by the side of the road we arrived muddy and dirty and in need of coffee to this delightful restaurant, da Orlando, where once again I am amazed by the grace and poetry and good humor of the Italyn people.

The rolling hills and stepped vineyards, joyous olive groves and deep light -filtering oak forests have touched them like an Amazing Grace. Florence was the height of nightmare for me. The rain and the tourist crowds were stronger than all my prayers for inspiration and admiring David beneath the assault of flashes was difficult.

Some lovely things: the outdoor antique fair in the rain was charming, and so was Daniel the owner of the cyber-cafe ( "Webpuccino", 22 Via dei Conti st. ) , and thanks to him we went for dinner at Za-Za's where we met another David; and what I said to that other David about the tourist influx was that if you're not part of the solution you're part of the problem.

And so I would just have soon left Florence to the crowds.
And here is a personal message for David, the famous Milanese orthodontist. It's a bit of graffiti I used to see scribbled on a wall in Paris which I went by often when I was living through a horribly similar situation. It said: FIGHT FOR LIGHT!

And for all those burning for light, and not the light of flashes, and if you're in Florence and wish to hear something other than 'Merican, go to Arezzo.